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You *CANNOT* use the same recipes on a wild duck that you'd use on a
domestic one. Because they are so lean, they will cook very fast. My
favorite technique, beside besides simply roasting them over a mirepoix,
is to saute the breast over high heat in either a bit of olive oil or
brown butter just long enough to sear the exterior, but not so long that
they are cooked through. They should be rare. They are then removed from
the pan and kept warm (on a platter at the rear of the range or in a slow
oven) while a reduction sauce is prepared in the pan. Any number of
classic sauces go well with duck prepared in this manner; I generally
begin by sauteing some shallots in butter, deglazing with a good, fruity
red wine, reducing by half, and then adding a bit of brown stock and
finishing it with a swirl of butter. Garlic, minced gingerroot, or some
crushed herbs can be added to the sauteed shallots as desired. You could
also substitute some heavy cream for the stock. To serve, sauce a plate,
thickly slice the duck breast across the grain diagonally, place in the
sauce on the plate and drizzle a little of the remaining sauce over the
cut slices. Add your favorite accompaniments, potatoes or rice and
whatever... Serve some of the wine that was used to make the sauce.
There are any number of variations on the above theme: sometimes I
cold smoke the duck with a fruitwood or nutwood fire -- apple or pecan is
my favorite before searing, and then toss some of the complimentary fruit
or nuts in with the sauteing shallots when I make the sauce.
You can accomplish pretty much the same thing over an open grill, but
the key is to be sure to remove the breast from the heat well before they
are cooked through. The classic way of determining when you have reached
the right stage is this: Make a fist with your thumb tucked inside. With
the forefinger of your opposite hand, rapidly press down on the exposed
muscle pad at the base of your thumb of your fisted hand. That's the feel
the duck breast should return when it's ready to be removed from the heat.
Bryan Logan
The river and pond ducks are the mallard, black or dusty, gadwall or gray,
baldpate or widgeon, green-winged and blue-winged teal, shoveler, pintail,
and wood.
The sea and bay ducks are the redhead, canvasback, greater scaup or broadbill,
lesser scaup or creek broadbill, ring-necked, golden-eye or whistler, Barrow's
golden-eye, bufflehead or butterball, old-squaw or southerly, harlequin,
American eider, American scoter or black coot, white-winged coot, surf
scoter, and ruddy.
Mallards are the choice of most duck fans, and mallard (raised for market) is
frequently the duck served in restaurants. Puddler ducks -- mallards, blacks,
shovelers, woodies, and teals -- are best for roasting. Diving ducks such as
redheads, canvasbacks, and scaup are stronger flavored and are usually
preferred in dishes calling for heavier seasoning. Some waterfowl should
always be skinned. These include old-squaw, mergansers, coot, and mud hens.
These are fish eaters and it can easily be proven at the table if you don't
skin them.
Small Duck Timetable
Smaller ducks can be roasted with skin on and require a shorter cooking time.
Rub with softened butter, and season. Put a cut-up apple in the cavity after
salting and peppering if desired. Roast unskinned in a 400 degree oven.
Teal: 7 1/2 minutes for rare, 10 for medium Ruddy: 9 minutes for rare, 12
for medium Butterball: 9 minutes for rare, 12 for medium.
The goose family includes (although not all of them are legal in all flyways)
the white-fronted, snow, lesser snow, Canada or wild, brant, and black brant.
Geese range in size from the Ross, which will weigh around 3 pounds, through
the brant (to 5 pounds) to the choicest Canada goose, which will run around 9
pounds for an adult male. Ducks are not only smaller, but have a relatively
wider range of sizes. The European teal will go about 10 ounces, but the most
popular mallard about 2 1/2 pounds, and the largest, the Pacific eider, about
5 1/2 pounds.
Whatever waterfowl your hunter comes home with, the meat is dark, rich, and
flavorful. This is one meat that should be served just as rare as your family
will allow, even bloody rare. Older birds benefit from marinating overnight
or for 24 hours to tenderize. Use a red wine or a marinade that will blend
with the final dish. Old birds, even though marinated, should have moist
cooking, but they still can be roasted. Put about 1 cup of water in the
roaster to be sure there is steam to moisten the bird.
As a general rule, waterfowl should be at room temperature when put into the
oven. If it is preheated to 500 degrees, a 6 pound goose will take 1 hour and
10 minutes or less; a mallard cooks for 20 minutes for very rare, 30 minutes
for medium-rare. (These times are for unstuffed birds.) Serve hot or cold
with Lemon Butter.
Jacqueline E. Knight
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